Pedalling from Chandigarh to Shimla

The year was 1981, and the Christmas holidays were about to approach. We, three friends in their late teens, planned an outing during the impending break. While deliberating over the various options, I casually suggested cycling to Shimla from Chandigarh. It clinched the issue without much forethought. The prospect of snowfall at Shimla around Christmas was the key factor behind the decision. None of us had previous experience of an excursion on a bicycle; being from Dehradun, I had some lessons in ascents and descents.

Setting out

We embarked on the voyage around noon on December 24 riding our modest 22-inch frame bicycles. It was a sunny day, and the kin of one of our teammates saw us off. There was no flag-off ceremony and no photo session. None of us had a camera. It was a rare commodity during those days.

The initial phase of the journey up to Chandimandir was easy-going; it is a level segment. However, a moderate gradient near HMT Pinjore left us gasping. It was a forewarning about the difficult times ahead. Leaving behind the famous Mughal-style Yadavindra (Pinjore) Gardens, we waded through the congested and crowded markets of Pinjore and Kalka, respectively, filled with different hues of merchandise.

Kalka to Jabli

The mountains start just beyond Kalka, and it is a steep uphill climb right from there. The persistent climb through the industrial town of Parwanoo forced us to look for a tea shop to get some respite and energy. A makeshift tea stall just past Parwanoo provided the much-needed brew and the break. The ascent accompanies up to Chaki-Ka-Mor, located about a couple of miles from Parwanoo. Thereafter, it was a pleasant level passage through sylvan surroundings up to Jabli—the verdure hill slopes, refreshing air, and the river Kaushalya rushing far below. Across the river, many hamlets dot the landscape.

Himachal Tourism’s café, Kosher, built just adjacent to an undulating stream at Jabli, was our next stop. Its appealing open-air restaurant, fashioned on a redundant bridge, offered a panoramic view of the Kasauli hills. The suave staff at the café served us steaming tea and tasty snacks. The café has since long been closed, and a fast-food restaurant occupies the space.

About 5 km ahead of Jabli, a manned level crossing intersects the road amidst picturesque settings (a flyover has been built here, and the crossing is no longer visible). While I approached the crossing, the gates were closed to let the train pass. It was a fine opportunity to catch a glimpse of the toy train. I remained seated on the saddle with one foot on the pedal and another stretched to the ground to maintain balance. I was all alone there; my companions were yet to turn up. After a restive wait, the train on the way to Kalka emerged through pine trees on the serpentine track. Its leisurely gliding movement through magnificent surroundings was mesmerizing.

Browsing the passengers in the fleeting coaches, I made eye contact with a beautiful young girl sitting in one of the forward-facing window seats. Before I could shift my sight, she gently raised her right hand and waved with a captivating smile. Her greeting caught me totally off guard, and I couldn’t reciprocate. By the time I realized my folly, the train had entered a nearby tunnel. My non-response might have dismayed her; however, her gesture had flushed much-needed vigour into my weary body. I narrated the incident to my companions on their arrival. In a lighter vein, they suggested rushing back to Kalka to meet the girl. I also had an impulse to return to Kalka to apologize for my misdemeanor.

Dharampur and Barog

The journey between the level crossing and Dharampur was quite demanding due to the steady climb. However, the pine-covered green hills and fresh air scented with the intoxicating fragrance of pine made the stretch relatively enjoyable. One gains about 2,800 feet in altitude by covering a distance of 25 km from Kalka to Dharampur.

The passage between Dharampur and Kumarhatti is rich in vegetation; the surroundings are comparatively cooler here, as hill slopes through this sector receive less solar radiation due to their location. At times, beds of ferns were visible along the roadside.

It was a grueling ride from Kumarhatti to Barog. Situated at an altitude of 5,600 feet, Barog provides an excellent view of rolling mountain ranges, scattered villages, and distant peaks. It also offers a clear view of the quaint Dagshai cantonment, perched on a mound-shaped hilltop.

A night in Solan

It was an exhilarating descent from Barog to Solan through the dense forest of oak, rhododendron, and pine trees. Solan is thickly populated and spread over a large area amidst high mountains. It was pitch dark by the time we reached Solan. The biting December chill made its presence felt. Exhausted and down with the cold, we looked for shelter. The hotel was beyond our reach; a gentle soul guided us to a dharamshala. Rooms were available in the dharamshala but lacked beds and bedding*.* The caretaker of the dharamshala allotted a room and advised us to get quilts from a nearby temple. Walking through the dimly lit web of narrow streets, we somehow located the temple but found it locked. It was too late to make further inquiries.

There was an old, coarse cotton mat in the room. It was full of dust and had gaping holes. We wrapped it to get a little relief from the intense cold without any success. None of us could sleep due to the numbing cold, and we bided time in agony and unease.

Early the next morning, we left Solan in despair. The morning chills induced shivering in the body. However, the rising sun over the Chail hills offered hope. The road was all ours; buses and trucks groaning and belching smoke made occasional appearances, and that gave a sense of company on the deserted road.

The lush green hill slopes on the left and the vast, wide valley towards the right between Solan and Kandaghat provide a feast for the eyes. Terraced, cultivated fields amidst clustered hamlets are a recurring feature. The periodic, melodious warble of the whistling thrush filled the hills and valleys. Noticing our approach near a spur, a flock of pheasants foraging on the outer berm of the road rushed into the bushes.

Kandaghat

Feeling hungry as we had left Solan with an empty stomach, Kandaghat was an impromptu choice for breakfast. It rests on the hill slopes to the left and has a railway station. The road to Chail also bifurcates from here. By the time we finished breakfast, the sun had moved high over the horizon, and its warmth provided a delightful sensation. A horde of crows perched on a roadside tree made their presence felt by loud caw-caw.

As the name suggests, Kandaghat is a pass. An entirely different view greets the visitors when the road crosses the narrow pass under the railway bridge. Towards the left, the panoramic view of the immense expanse of mountain ranges and valleys fascinates. To the right, stark hills reaching up to lofty peaks and rolling down to green fields in the valley present an awesome sight. The road passes through steep, rugged mountains, and at places, hanging cliffs form a canopy over it. The stretch also abounds in wild raspberry and barberry. The Shimla hills, dotted with inclined-roof buildings amidst dense conical trees, are also visible at times.

A number of roadside undulating springs attract the attention of visitors on the way. The crystal-clear and sparkling water of the springs not only quenches the travelers’ thirst but is also a source of wonderful flora. The tinkling course of the streams houses large varieties of ferns and flowering plants. The plants present a captivating dance whenever a gentle breeze nudges them. The number of roadside springs has dwindled over the years.

At many places, we came across simple hill folks in their traditional clothes, waiting for the bus, perhaps for Shimla. These people must have covered long, uneven, and serpentine trails to reach the bus stop from their remote locations.

Taradevi

Surprised to see us on cycles, a gentleman in his early fifties signaled us to stop at Taradevi. Although people looked at us inquisitively on the way, as bicycles were hardly used in the hills during those days, it was the first time that someone had stopped us out of curiosity. We felt a little elated and informed the gentleman enthusiastically about our expedition. He praised our zest for adventure and offered us milk and snacks in a roadside dhaba. While we relished the snacks, the gentleman talked about disparity and exploitation in society and the Marxist way to eradicate them. He was the station master at Taradevi. We profusely thanked him for his generosity and moved on to the last phase of our journey.

Taradevi provides a fine view of Shimla spread over the seven hills. And towards the right, deep down in the valley, the view of densely wooded glens with patches of glades leaves one spellbound. It also encompasses a few scattered settlements.

The 10-km stretch between Taradevi and Shimla is very steep and has three distinct segments, each characterizing the preponderance of one variety of trees. Lofty chir pine dots the hill slopes through the initial part, and its heady scent pervades the air. While negotiating a sharp gradient along this section, a bus struggling hard to maintain the pace emerged to my right. It was full of young girls, possibly out on an excursion. As the bus was in the process of overtaking me, a few girls sitting by the windows craned out their necks and made faces at me. And this time, I responded, but indignantly. My reaction must have shocked the girls, as all of them immediately pulled their heads back.

I realize now that the intention of the girls was not to tease me but to have a little fun; however, being under stress due to the steep climb and long journey, their gesture rather irritated me. However, I often keep wondering: What inspired the girls to make faces at me? They could have simply waved like the girl in the toy train at the level crossing.

Oak dominates the middle part. Its dense and dark green canopy hardly lets the sun sneak through it. One can sense the comparatively dark and cool surroundings through this part. Oak forest plays a significant role in maintaining natural spring activity, as it retains water for a long time and releases it slowly. And the majestic deodar dominates the last segment. It bestows unique charm and beauty on Shimla Hills. Most of them are quite old and add to the serenity of the place.

Shimla

Around noon, we made ourselves comfortable at a Gurudwara located beside the cart road in Shimla. The sewadars at the Gurudwara showered special attention on us and also helped us locate a place to park the cycles. We made a dash for the mall road after giving a little rest to the tired limbs. The mall was jam-packed, particularly the half-kilometer-long stretch between the crossroad (scandal point) and Combermere Bridge. A large number of people had flocked to Shimla to enjoy the Christmas holidays.

Dodging the milling crowd strolling on the mall, we made our way to the ridge. The crisp air and charming surroundings at the ridge present a wonderful experience. The view of mountain ranges and networks of ridges unlocks a vista of gripping beauty. And distant, snow-covered peaks offer a glimpse of the magnificent Great Himalayas.

However, the much-expected snowfall was nowhere in sight. Clouds roamed about, but they were very different from those that brought rain and snow. Yet the vigour of the crowd was upbeat. Young, as well as old, vied to savour the ambiance and the thrill of the mountains. And we, the three cyclists, were part of the exhilarating crowd, totally oblivious to the pain and trouble endured during the journey.